American Traditional Stretcher-
• Features keyed double finger miter joints for the corners and keyed mortise and tenon joints for the crossbars.
• The 'keys' or ' wood wedges' are used to expand the stretcher and create tension to the canvas.
• Do not over key. Over keying will jeopardize the structure of stretchers.
• Tie or apply wax on keys prevent keys from falling out.

Mechanical Stretcher-
• The original design of this hardware is to tighten, not expand.
• Wood shims are highly recommended to keying.
• After the proper tension is achieved, place wood shims between the hardware and guiding pins to hold the tension, then tighten the hardware to stabilize the joint.

Helpful Hints for Both Styles-
• Proper weight in proportion to overall dimensions.
• An appropriate number of crossbars should be used to ensure the strength and stability of the support.
• Sealing is recommended because it reduces moisture absorption.

• The thinner the stretcher, the more easily the canvas will touch the crossbar or the inside edge of the stretcher bar.
• L-shape profile is recommended for painters. The deep profile provides clearance and prevents canvas from touching the crossbars while painting.
• Continuous bevel is recommended for painting that is completed or painting that needs to be re-stretched and framed. There are more framing options for thinner profile stretchers.

American Traditional Stretcher - Flat Back Profile

American Traditional Stretcher - Beveled Back Profile

1) Clear a flat surface and lay out all the components.
2) Intersect the top crossbar to the bottom crossbar.
3) Insert the tenon of one crossbar to the mortice of a stretcher bar.
4) Repeat step 3 to the remaining stretcher bars.
5) Gently tap all the corners and crossbar joints with a rubber mallet until they are tightly fit together and are prefectly alligned at the corners.
6) Measure the diagonals to ensure the frame is square.
7) Secure the overlap joint by inserting screws to the top crossbar.
8) The frame is now ready for stretching. Insert keys after the canvas is stretched.
9) Tie or apply wax to keys prevent keys from falling out.

1) Clear a flat surface. Lay out all the components and learn the parts.

2) Insert expansion bolts to crossbars and screw the drawing bolts half way in to the expansion bolts.

3) Insert the guiding pins and intersect the bottom crossbar to the top crossbar.

4) Repeat the same steps to the stretcher bars. Install expansion bolts and drawing bolts and insert guiding pins to one end of the stretcher bars.

5) Insert stretcher bar to the crossbar. Do not close the joints as they have to be closed simultaneously. Rotate and repeat the step.

6) Once all the pieces are in place, you can close the joints by tapping simultaneously with a rubber mallet.

7) Insert locking sleeves to the drawing bolts. The drawing bolts have to be in the upright position for the locking sleeves to fit in.

8) lastly, secure each joint by tighting the expansion bolt with a metal rod. Secure the overlap joint by inserting screws to the top crossbar.

8) In an event of canvas loosening and keying is necessary, wood shims are highly recommended for keying. Afer the proper tension is achieved, place wood shims between the hardware and guiding pins to hold the tension, then tighten the hardware to stabilize the joint. However, we do not recommend keyout more than 1/8".

We always recommend to seal wood panels before applying any grounds or paints. Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Shellac is an alcohol based solution, which helps reducing moisture absorption. First, apply one thin coat of Shellac around the panel. Then, sand off the face with fine sand paper once it dries. This step is very important because gesso or primer may crack or peel off over time if Shellac is built up on the surface.

You must have an accurate measurement of your painting before ordering a support. In order to get an accurate measurement, follow the steps below:

1) Measure the height starting from the left; then measure the center and the right. Make sure the painting is measured from tacking edge to tacking edge, or from crop marks to crop marks.
2) Measure the two diagonals.
3) If the painting has been stretched previously; the thickness must be measured as well.

You may download this 'Measure Painting Form" to help you with the measuring.
Adobe Reader required.

There are few things you need to be taken into consideration after you have your measurement.
• If there is a discrepancy in the measurements; the painting is considered out of square. You will have to either build a square support and trim the image, or build a support according to the painting and retain the shape.
• Check if there is enough tacking margin. If the tacking margin is minimal; the painting will be either stapled on the edges or striped line in order to staple on the back.

If you are not confident in measuring the painting on your own; simply send it to us and we will measure the painting for you.

You will need enough tacking margin in order to pull tight and staple the canvas on the back of the support. For thickness1-1/2" or less; add 3" to each side of the support. Add 4" for thickness 1-3/4" to 2" and so forth. Thicker the support; the more tacking margin you will need.

For example:
1) Dimensions of a support are 46" x 110" x 1-1/2" t.
2) Add 3" to each side of the support, and the canvas you will need for this support is 52" x 116".
3) A canvas of 120" width can be used. In this case, the long side of the support is used to determine the width of the canvas, and the short side of the support is used to determine the yardage.
4) Convert 52" into yard. 52" divided by 36" is 1.44 yards.
5) Most stores sell canvas by yard. 2 yards will be need for this support.

1 Inch = 2.54 cm, 1 Foot = 30.48 cm, 1 Foot = 12 Inch

cm

feet

inch